Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure that exfoliates your skin and removes fine vellus hair, also known as “peach fuzz”, using a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel.
This non-invasive treatment reveals a smoother, brighter, and more radiant complexion almost instantly.
With the global dermaplaning tools market valued at over USD 612 million in 2023 and projected to grow, its popularity as a go-to for flawless skin is undeniable.
But what does it really involve, and is it safe? Once a treatment reserved for dermatology clinics to prep skin for other procedures, dermaplaning has now entered the mainstream.
It promises to enhance makeup application, improve skincare product absorption, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and acne scars.
This comprehensive guide will explore the science behind dermaplaning, weigh its benefits against the risks, compare it to other popular skin treatments, and provide expert advice on whether you can—or should—try it at home.
Read on to discover if dermaplaning is the secret to your most radiant skin yet.
In This Article
What Exactly Is Dermaplaning?
At its core, dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation method.
It’s a skin resurfacing procedure that involves a trained professional gently scraping the surface of your skin with a sterile, surgical scalpel held at a 45-degree angle.
This process is also sometimes referred to as microplaning or blading.
A Deeper Dive into the Definition
Unlike other exfoliation methods that use chemicals or abrasive particles, dermaplaning provides a precise and controlled removal of the outermost layer of skin.
The primary goals are twofold: to remove the build-up of dead skin cells and to eliminate the fine, translucent vellus hair that covers the face, commonly known as “peach fuzz”.
The result is skin that is exceptionally smooth to the touch and visibly more radiant.
The Science: How It Exfoliates the Stratum Corneum
To understand how dermaplaning works, it’s helpful to know a little about your skin’s structure.
The outermost layer of the epidermis is called the stratum corneum.
This layer acts as the skin’s primary barrier against the environment.
It’s composed of about 15-20 layers of flattened, dead skin cells called corneocytes, arranged like bricks in a wall, held together by a lipid “mortar”.
While this barrier is essential for protection, an excessive buildup of these dead cells can lead to a dull, uneven, and dry appearance.
As noted in research on skin barrier function, a healthy stratum corneum is crucial for hydration and protection.
Dermaplaning physically removes this top layer of dead corneocytes, instantly revealing the newer, healthier skin cells underneath.
This process can also stimulate cellular turnover, encouraging your skin to regenerate more quickly.
What It Removes: Dead Skin Cells and Vellus Hair (Peach Fuzz)
The two main targets of a dermaplaning treatment are:
- Dead Skin Cells: Your skin naturally sheds dead cells in a process called desquamation. However, factors like age, sun damage, and environmental stressors can slow this process down. Dermaplaning manually clears away up to three week’s worth of this buildup.
- Vellus Hair: This is the fine, soft, typically translucent hair that covers much of your face and body. While it’s normal, this “peach fuzz” can trap excess oil and dirt, contributing to a dull complexion and preventing makeup from sitting smoothly on the skin. Dermaplaning removes this hair completely, leaving a flawless surface.
Is Dermaplaning Just a Fancy Word for Shaving?
This is a common question, and while the two actions seem similar, there are key differences.
Shaving is designed primarily for hair removal. A typical razor cuts hair at the skin’s surface but is not intended to remove layers of skin cells.
Dermaplaning, on the other hand, is an exfoliation treatment first and foremost.
As WebMD explains, it uses a more precise, single-edge surgical blade to remove not only the vellus hair but also the outermost layer of dead skin.
The tool, technique, and training required for dermaplaning are far more specialized than for everyday shaving.
What Are the Proven Benefits of Dermaplaning?
The appeal of dermaplaning lies in its immediate and noticeable results. Patients often leave their appointment with visibly brighter and smoother skin.
Here are the key benefits reported by dermatologists and satisfied clients.
Benefit 1: Reveals Brighter, More Radiant Skin
By removing the dull, dead top layer of skin, dermaplaning instantly brightens your complexion.
Light reflects more evenly off the smooth, fresh surface, giving your skin a healthy, youthful glow.
This immediate “glow-up” is one of the most popular reasons people choose this treatment.
Benefit 2: Creates an Incredibly Smooth Canvas for Makeup
One of the most celebrated benefits is the flawless makeup application that follows a dermaplaning session.
Without the interference of peach fuzz and uneven skin texture, foundation and other products glide on smoothly and look less cakey.
Many makeup artists recommend the treatment to clients before major events.
Benefit 3: Enhances Skincare Product Absorption
A layer of dead skin cells and debris can act as a barrier, preventing your expensive serums and moisturizers from penetrating effectively.
As Everyday Health notes, by clearing this barrier, dermaplaning allows active ingredients to absorb more deeply into the skin, boosting their efficacy and giving you more value from your skincare routine.
Benefit 4: Reduces the Appearance of Fine Lines and Acne Scars
While it won’t eliminate deep wrinkles, regular dermaplaning can help soften the appearance of fine lines.
The exfoliation promotes cell turnover and can stimulate a small amount of collagen production over time.
For scarring, it can be effective in reducing the look of shallow acne scars and pockmarks by “skimming” the surface and creating a more even skin plane.
Benefit 5: Unclogs Pores and May Help Prevent Breakouts
By removing dead skin cells and fine hairs that can trap oil, dirt, and bacteria, dermaplaning helps to de-clog pores.
While it’s not recommended for those with active, inflammatory acne, it can be a preventative measure for future breakouts in those with acne-prone skin by keeping the skin’s surface clean and clear.
Is Dermaplaning Safe? Understanding the Risks and Side Effects
When performed by a licensed and experienced professional, dermaplaning is considered a low-risk procedure.
However, like any cosmetic treatment, it’s not without potential side effects and is not suitable for everyone.
Understanding the contraindications is key to ensuring a safe experience.
Common and Mild Side Effects
Most people experience minimal side effects that resolve within a few hours to a couple of days. According to the Healthline article, these can include:
- Slight redness: Your face may appear slightly flushed, similar to after a vigorous workout.
- Tingling or sensitivity: The newly exposed skin may feel sensitive for a day or two.
- Whiteheads: Some people may develop small whiteheads a day or two after the procedure, which typically resolve quickly.
Less Common but More Serious Risks
While rare, more significant side effects can occur, especially if the procedure is performed incorrectly or in an unhygienic environment.
- Infection: Any time the skin barrier is compromised, there is a risk of infection. Using a non-sterile blade or performing the treatment on skin with open wounds increases this risk significantly.
- Scarring: Nicks and cuts are possible, and in very rare cases, this can lead to scarring, such as keloid or hypertrophic scars.
- Pigmentation Changes: Patchy skin pigment (either lighter or darker) can occur, especially if proper sun protection is not used post-treatment.
Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning? (Contraindications)
Dermaplaning is not a one-size-fits-all treatment. The Cleveland Clinic and other medical sources advise that you should avoid or postpone this procedure if you have:
- An active or cystic acne breakout
- An active infection, such as a cold sore outbreak (herpes simplex virus)
- Inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis on the face
- A sunburn
- Numerous raised moles, skin tags, or other growths in the treatment area
- A history of keloid scarring
- An allergy to nickel (some blades contain nickel)
- Are currently taking or have recently taken isotretinoin (Accutane) in the last 6 months
The Myth Debunked: Will My Hair Grow Back Thicker?
“It’s a myth that your hair will grow back thicker or darker after dermaplaning. While hair that grows back may feel coarser at first, it will get softer over time.” – WebMD
This is perhaps the biggest myth surrounding dermaplaning. The procedure does not, and cannot, change the structure of your hair follicles.
When the vellus hair is cut, it’s removed at a blunt angle. As it begins to grow back, the blunt tip can feel stubbly for a short time before it tapers to its natural, soft point.
The hair’s thickness, color, and growth rate remain unchanged.
The Professional Dermaplaning Procedure: What to Expect
Knowing what happens before, during, and after a professional dermaplaning treatment can help you feel more comfortable and ensure you get the best possible results.
A typical session is quick, usually lasting between 30 and 45 minutes.
How to Prepare for Your Appointment
Proper preparation is key to a safe and effective treatment. Your provider will give you specific instructions, but general guidelines include:
- Avoid Exfoliants: Discontinue use of any physical scrubs or chemical exfoliants (like AHAs, BHAs, and enzymes) for 3-5 days before your appointment.
- Pause Retinoids: Stop using retinol, tretinoin, and other vitamin A derivatives for about a week prior to treatment to prevent irritation.
- Avoid Sun Exposure: Do not come to your appointment with a sunburn. Avoid direct sun exposure and tanning for at least a week beforehand.
- Reschedule if Needed: If you have an active acne breakout or a cold sore, call your provider to reschedule.
A Step-by-Step Guide to the Treatment
A professional dermaplaning facial follows a meticulous process:
- Cleansing: The esthetician or dermatologist will thoroughly cleanse your skin to remove all makeup, oil, and impurities.
- Skin Prep: A prep solution, often an alcohol or acetone-based toner, is applied to the skin. This step ensures the skin is completely dry and free of oils, allowing the blade to glide smoothly without slipping.
- The Dermaplaning: Your provider will hold your skin taut with one hand. With the other, they will use a sterile, single-use surgical blade at a 45-degree angle, using short, feathery strokes to gently scrape away dead skin and vellus hair.
- Soothing and Hydration: After the exfoliation is complete, a calming serum, hydrating mask, or soothing moisturizer is applied to the skin to replenish moisture and reduce any mild redness.
- Sun Protection: The final and most critical step is the application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher). Your newly exposed skin is highly vulnerable to sun damage.
Does Dermaplaning Hurt?
No, dermaplaning should not be painful. Most people describe the sensation as a light scratching or a gentle tickle.
Because it only affects the very top layers of the skin where there are no nerve endings, it is generally a comfortable and even relaxing experience.
No numbing cream is typically required.
Post-Treatment Care: The Crucial First 72 Hours
What you do after your treatment is just as important as the procedure itself.
Your skin will be more sensitive and absorbent, so follow these aftercare tips:
- Be Gentle: Use a mild, soap-free cleanser and lukewarm water. Pat your skin dry, don’t rub.
- Hydrate and Moisturize: Apply a gentle, hydrating serum (like one with hyaluronic acid) and a simple, non-comedogenic moisturizer.
- SPF is Non-Negotiable: Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 every single day, even if you’re indoors. Reapply every two hours if you are outside.
- Avoid Harsh Products: Stay away from exfoliants, retinoids, and products with alcohol or fragrance for at least 3-5 days.
- Skip the Gym: Avoid heavy workouts, saunas, and steam rooms for the first 24 hours to prevent irritation from sweat.
- Hands Off: Avoid touching your face to prevent transferring bacteria to your sensitive skin.
Dermaplaning at Home: Is It a Good Idea?
With the rise of “face shaving” tutorials on social media, at-home dermaplaning has become a major trend.
You can easily find tools—often called “tinkle razors”, “facial razors”, or “beauty wands”—online and in drugstores.
But is DIY dermaplaning safe and effective? While it may seem like a cost-effective alternative, most dermatologists and estheticians advise caution.
The risks of performing the procedure on yourself are significantly higher, and the results are not comparable to a professional treatment.
Professional vs. At-Home: A Comparison
Here’s a breakdown of the key differences between a professional treatment and a DIY session:
| Feature | Professional Dermaplaning | At-Home Dermaplaning |
|---|---|---|
| Tool | Sterile, single-use surgical scalpel (#10R blade) | Guarded facial razor or “beauty wand” |
| Safety | High, performed by a trained, licensed professional in a sterile environment. | Higher risk of nicks, cuts, irritation, and infection. Blades are less sharp and may harbor bacteria. |
| Efficacy | Provides deep physical exfoliation, removing 2-3 weeks of dead skin cells. | Provides superficial hair removal and very light exfoliation. Does not achieve the same level of skin resurfacing. |
| Technique | Precise 45-degree angle, skin held taut, expert knowledge of facial anatomy. | Difficult to maintain correct angle and tension on your own face, leading to uneven results or injury. |
Risks of DIY Dermaplaning
The primary concern with at-home dermaplaning is safety. Without proper training, you risk:
- Cuts and Abrasions: It’s easy to apply too much pressure or use the wrong angle, leading to nicks that can bleed, scab, and potentially scar.
- Infection: At-home tools are often not sterile. Reusing blades can introduce bacteria into micro-cuts on your skin, causing breakouts or more serious infections.
- Irritation and Breakouts: Using a dull blade or improper technique can cause significant skin irritation. If you go over an active pimple, you can spread acne-causing bacteria across your face.
A Safer Step-by-Step Guide for At-Home Attempts
If you still choose to try at-home dermaplaning, it’s crucial to prioritize safety.
Think of it as “facial shaving” rather than a true dermaplaning treatment.
- Start with Clean Skin: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat it completely dry.
- Use a New, Clean Blade: Always use a fresh, sharp blade specifically designed for the face. Sanitize it with rubbing alcohol before and after each use if it’s not single-use.
- Hold Skin Taut: Use your free hand to pull the skin tight. This creates a smooth, flat surface and reduces the risk of nicks.
- Use Light, Short Strokes: Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and use very light, downward, feathery strokes. Do not go over the same area multiple times.
- Avoid Sensitive Areas: Be extra careful around the nose, mouth, and eyebrows. Do not go over active acne, moles, or any irritated skin.
- Follow with Aftercare: Rinse your face with water, and apply a soothing, hydrating moisturizer and sunscreen.
How Does Dermaplaning Compare to Other Treatments?
Dermaplaning is one of many exfoliation treatments available.
Understanding how it differs from other popular options like microdermabrasion and chemical peels can help you choose the best procedure for your skin goals.
Dermaplaning vs. Microdermabrasion
Both are physical exfoliation methods, but they work differently. Dermaplaning uses a blade to scrape away dead skin.
Microdermabrasion, as described by Cleveland Clinic, uses a minimally abrasive instrument to “sand” the skin, using either a diamond-tipped wand or a spray of fine crystals.
- Main Difference: Dermaplaning removes vellus hair in addition to exfoliating, microdermabrasion does not.
- Best For: Dermaplaning is excellent for those wanting smooth, hair-free skin and a radiant glow. Microdermabrasion may be slightly better for addressing texture issues like clogged pores and rough patches.
- Sensitivity: Dermaplaning can be suitable for sensitive skin and those with redness, as there is no suction involved. The suction in microdermabrasion can sometimes exacerbate redness.
Dermaplaning vs. Chemical Peels
This comparison is between physical and chemical exfoliation.
A chemical peel uses acids (like glycolic, salicylic, or lactic acid) to dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells together, causing them to shed.
- Main Difference: Dermaplaning is a mechanical removal, while a chemical peel is a chemical dissolution of dead skin.
- Best For: Chemical peels are highly effective for treating pigmentation issues (like sun spots and melasma), fine lines, and acne, as the acids can penetrate deeper into the skin. Dermaplaning is superior for removing peach fuzz and providing instant smoothness.
- Downtime: Dermaplaning has virtually no downtime. Chemical peels, depending on their strength (light, medium, or deep), can cause visible peeling, redness, and require several days of recovery.
Can You Combine Dermaplaning with Other Procedures?
Yes, and this is a common practice. Because dermaplaning removes the top barrier of dead skin, it’s an excellent preparatory step for other treatments.
It allows for deeper and more even penetration of chemical peels and hydrating masks.
A popular combination is a dermaplaning treatment immediately followed by a light chemical peel or a hydrating facial for enhanced results.
However, this should only be done under the guidance of a qualified professional.
How Much Does Dermaplaning Cost and Is It Worth It?
The cost of a professional dermaplaning treatment can vary significantly based on several factors, but it’s an important consideration when deciding if the procedure is right for you.
Average Cost per Session in the U.S.
According to sources like Healthline, you can expect to pay anywhere from $150 to $250 or more for a single professional dermaplaning session.
If the treatment is combined with a chemical peel or hydrating facial, the cost will be higher.
Factors That Influence the Price
- Geographic Location: Costs are typically higher in major metropolitan areas with a higher cost of living.
- Provider’s Credentials: A session with a board-certified dermatologist will generally cost more than one with a licensed esthetician at a medspa.
- Inclusion of Other Services: The price will increase if the dermaplaning is part of a larger facial package that includes masks, serums, or peels.
Is It Covered by Insurance?
No. Dermaplaning is considered a cosmetic procedure, so it is not covered by medical insurance.
You should be prepared to pay for the full cost out-of-pocket.
How Often Should You Get It Done for Best Results?
The results of dermaplaning are temporary. The treatment removes about three to four week’s worth of dead skin cells.
Since your skin’s natural regeneration cycle is approximately 28 days, most professionals recommend scheduling treatments every 4 to 6 weeks to maintain the smooth texture and radiant glow.
This frequency allows your skin to complete its natural cycle before the next exfoliation.
Finding a Qualified Provider: Who Should Perform Dermaplaning?
The safety and effectiveness of your dermaplaning treatment depend almost entirely on the skill of the person holding the blade.
Choosing a qualified provider is the most important step you can take.
Credentials to Look For
Ideally, dermaplaning should be performed by a state-licensed professional with specific training and experience in the procedure. Your best options are:
- Board-Certified Dermatologist: A medical doctor specializing in skin, hair, and nails. This is the most qualified professional, especially if you have underlying skin conditions.
- Licensed Esthetician: A skincare professional trained and licensed by the state. Look for an esthetician who works in a reputable dermatology office or medspa and has a certification specifically in dermaplaning.
Avoid seeking treatment from individuals who are not licensed or who work in settings that do not adhere to strict sanitation protocols.
Where to Find a Trusted Professional
You can start your search using professional directories from reputable organizations:
- The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD): Their “Find a Dermatologist” tool can help you locate board-certified dermatologists in your area.
- The American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS): Their “Find a Surgeon” tool can help you find plastic surgeons who may offer cosmetic skin procedures.
You can also ask for referrals from friends or read reviews for local medspas, but always verify the provider’s credentials.
Questions to Ask During Your Consultation
Before committing to a treatment, schedule a consultation and ask these important questions:
- What are your credentials and how long have you been performing dermaplaning?
- Are you licensed in this state?
- Can I see before-and-after photos of your clients?
- What kind of blade do you use, and is it a new, sterile blade for every client?
- Based on my skin type and concerns, am I a good candidate for this procedure?
- What are the potential risks and side effects for someone with my skin?
- What is the total cost, and what does it include?
The Evidence: What Do Studies and Experts Say?
While dermaplaning has surged in popularity, it’s important to look at the scientific evidence and expert consensus behind the trend.
What does the research say about its efficacy and safety?
The State of Scientific Research
One of the most critical points to understand is that high-quality, large-scale clinical trials on dermaplaning are limited.
A systematic review published in the journal Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and available on PubMed investigated noninvasive rejuvenation strategies, including dermaplaning.
The researchers concluded:
“The overall amount of scientific data supporting these methods was found to be scarce, anecdotal, and not well documented. Nevertheless, all three noninvasive therapies have become increasingly popular in the cosmetic market because many patients and physicians or surgeons report being pleased with their results.”
This doesn’t mean dermaplaning doesn’t work, it simply means its benefits are primarily supported by clinical observation and patient reports rather than rigorous, peer-reviewed studies.
The high rate of patient satisfaction is a significant factor in its continued and growing use.
Expert Opinions from Dermatologists
Despite the lack of extensive research, many dermatologists support dermaplaning as a safe and effective exfoliation method when performed correctly.
Dr. Joshua Zeichner, an associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, told Business Insider, “Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation process using a sharp blade against the skin. At the same time, it removes both dead cells and hair”. He notes that removing peach fuzz can “allow light to better reflect off the surface of the skin”, which brightens the complexion.
The consensus among medical professionals is that safety is paramount.
The procedure is low-risk in the hands of a trained professional but can be dangerous when attempted by an amateur.
Real User Experiences
Anecdotal evidence from platforms like Reddit provides valuable insight into real-world experiences.
In forums such as r/SkincareAddiction, users who have had professional dermaplaning often report high satisfaction. Common themes include:
- Amazement at how smoothly makeup applies afterward.
- A noticeable “glow” and softness to the skin.
- Confirmation that hair does not grow back thicker or darker.
- Some users with sensitive skin report mild redness, but it usually subsides quickly.
- Experiences with at-home dermaplaning are mixed, with many users reporting nicks, irritation, or less-than-impressive results compared to professional treatments.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Does hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?
No. This is a common myth. Dermaplaning does not change the structure of the hair follicle, so your hair will grow back with the same thickness and color. The blunt tip may feel temporarily coarse but will soften over time.
2. How long do the results of dermaplaning last?
The smooth, radiant results typically last for about three to four weeks. This aligns with the skin’s natural 28-day regeneration cycle. Regular treatments are needed to maintain the effects.
3. Can dermaplaning cause breakouts?
It can, but it’s not common. Breakouts may occur if the procedure is done on active acne, spreading bacteria. Some people may also experience temporary whiteheads as the skin purges oil. Proper aftercare helps minimize this risk.
4. Is dermaplaning good for all skin types?
Dermaplaning is safe for most skin types, including sensitive skin. However, it is not recommended for those with active acne, rosacea, eczema, or other inflammatory skin conditions, as it can cause significant irritation.
5. Can I wear makeup after dermaplaning?
It’s best to wait at least 24 hours before applying makeup. Your skin is sensitive and your pores are open after the treatment, so giving it time to breathe and heal helps prevent irritation and breakouts.
6. How often should I get a dermaplaning treatment?
Most professionals recommend getting a dermaplaning treatment every 4 to 6 weeks. This schedule allows your skin to complete its natural rejuvenation cycle between sessions, ensuring optimal and consistent results without over-exfoliating.
7. Is at-home dermaplaning as good as a professional treatment?
No. At-home tools provide a much more superficial exfoliation and are primarily for hair removal. A professional treatment uses a surgical-grade scalpel for deeper, safer, and more effective skin resurfacing.
8. Does dermaplaning help with wrinkles?
Dermaplaning can help reduce the appearance of fine lines by removing the top layer of dead skin and promoting cell turnover. However, it is not an effective treatment for deep wrinkles, which require more intensive procedures.
Conclusion
Dermaplaning offers a compelling, non-invasive solution for anyone seeking instantly smoother, brighter skin.
By effectively removing dead skin cells and vellus hair, it provides a flawless canvas for makeup, enhances the performance of your skincare products, and delivers a radiant glow with virtually no downtime.
While the scientific literature is still catching up to its popularity, the high rate of patient satisfaction and endorsement from many dermatologists speak to its perceived benefits.
However, the key to a successful experience lies in safety and professionalism.
The risks of irritation, infection, or injury are significantly minimized when the procedure is performed by a qualified, licensed provider.
While at-home options are tempting, they cannot replicate the safety or efficacy of a professional treatment.
If you’re ready to unlock a new level of skin radiance and smoothness, your next step is clear.
Consult with a board-certified dermatologist or a trusted, licensed esthetician to discuss your skin goals and determine if dermaplaning is the right choice for you.
Have you tried dermaplaning? Share your experience or ask any remaining questions in the comments below!